If you're an artist and you're looking into ways to recreate your own designs into garments yourself using some old-school methods, you're at the right place. In this article, we'll discuss the different types of printing techniques – from traditional screenprinting to more modern DTF and linocut methods. We'll explain the differences between them, their pros and cons, as well as how to use each one efficiently. Let's get started!
Screen printing
You already know my favourite method, so we're going to start with it! Good old screen printing, we're in a love-hate relationship. It brings me a lot of joy, but also frustration, sweat and tears (sometimes). It is a process that takes a bit to master, and you're bound to ruin a few screens and t-shirts when you first start.
I have some more detailed articles, that go into detail on what screen printing is and how to screen print, you can check them out here
In short, screen printing is the process of transferring your design into a flat surface using a silkscreen, ink and a squeegee. You would transfer the design into the screen using a photo-sensitive emulsion, and then wait for it to dry before printing. If your design contains more than 1 colours, you would use a separate screen for each colour.
One of the best things about this process is the high durability of the print. You would have to get good quality textile ink, but it is worth it. Properly done, the design would be durable and high quality. That's the impression we want to leave on our clients! Versatility is a big advantage as well since you can screen print on many different types of fabric such as cotton, polyester, silk and more. The colours, too! On the market are a huge variety of bright and vibrant colours, and also opaque options that you could use over dark fabrics!
It is also fun to do, once you get over the learning curve of the method. Plus, you can get some video and photo content of the work-in-progress, screen printing is weirdly satisfying to watch!
I might be biased, but I would take the time to discuss the cons too and be fully transparent.
Screen printing is time-consuming- you are transferring your designs by hand using a complex printing method.
The initial setup might also be costly. There is an investment to make here, you would need to get screens, inks, squeegee, and other supplies. You'll need space, too. That would not make this method suitable for low-budget or short-term projects.
The learning curve is a big one. While getting the gist of the process, you would ruin a bunch of screens and fabrics, you would get some faulty items and that might be frustrating. With time, you would get progressively fewer misprints, but this part is important to mention.
Those are my main points about screen printing, now let's move forward to another type of process that I love!
Lino-cut
Lino-cutting is another old-timey method of printing that I find really fun and satisfying to do!
You would carve your design into a linoleum sheet or rubber, and then use a rubber ink roller to transfer ink to your carving. Then, you would use your carved inked sheet and stamp it onto textile or paper. For linoleum, you might have to use a press or push it really hard by hand, but if you're using a good quality rubber sheet, you would get great results by just stamping it with a little pressure.
With lino, you get unique results that show off the technique, and you could even carve out some super tiny details if you want. Overall, the results can be beautiful and rewarding.
I would say the process is relatively simple, it doesn't take long to get the gist of it as is the case with screen printing. You need to be careful not to cut yourself tough! Another great thing about it is that it doesn't require a lot of materials or that much space. You would need your rubber sheet, and then ink and an ink roller. You can even use a regular spoon to press it.
And, if you go for that good quality textile ink, the design would turn out pretty permanent and wouldn't wash away, like with screen printing!
As a con, there is still a learning curve- you would need to think of designs that are suitable for the technique. Another thing is that it is also time-consuming since you need to carve out your design by hand. But the thing is, once that's done you can print it many times!
DTF Technology
DTF, as in Direct to Film, don't get any funky ideas, is another option you can go for. You get your design on a special film that would transfer your artwork to a textile using a heat press (or a regular iron).
The biggest advantage of this heat transfer technology is that you don't have any limitations when it comes to the image itself. You could print a photo if you wish, and don't have to have it necessarily vectorized or simplified, as you would when you either screen print or lino cut. You can use it on dark-coloured garments too as it doesn't have transparency. It is also quite easy to do- you would receive them ready from your manufacturer and all you would need to do is to transfer them onto the fabric! Much less time-consuming than other methods.
The film that I get my DTFs on ^
So, to summarize the pros- you can get photo-realistic and intricate designs onto fabric, and it is quite cost-effective. It's easy to do and takes much less time than other methods.
Sounds too good to be true though, doesn't it?
That's because it is. Let's talk about the cons.
The biggest disadvantage for me is that the results from this method are not durable. The design would either start peeling off or crack after a certain amount of washes. When we do lino cut printing or screenprint, the ink itself settles into the fabric, while with the DTF it kind of sticks on top of the fabric (not exactly like a sticker does, but you get the idea).
If I use DTF on clothing, it would be for the branding on the inside of the collar, since the area is not suitable for screenprinting techniques, and the writing might also be too small for the screen mesh to pass through properly.
I personally wouldn't use this method for clothing items, because of that. To be fair, I use it for my pencil cases, because since it's not clothing you wouldn't wash it that often (or ever if you're like most artists, haha) and the durability would not be an issue.
*Also with DTF transfers, you can't use just any type of fabric. Works best for 100% cotton, 100% polyester, cotton/poly blends, and Lycra.
Conclusion
Those are my reflections and experiences on the topic of how to translate your own designs into fabric. I hope this would help your research and help you choose where to start! I would always recommend experimenting and trying different mediums, you never know where you can find your newest passion.